Spectral evolution of shoaling and breaking waves on a barred beach
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- Type
- article
- Published
- 1997-07-15
- Cited by
- 135
- References
- 31
- Access
- Open access
- OpenAlex
- https://openalex.org/W1997180789
- Semantic Scholar
- https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:129784764
Keywords
Dissipation, Swell, Surf zone, Geology, Shoaling and schooling
References
- FIELD INVESTIGATIONS OF SUSPENDED SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE NEARSHORE ZONE
- The Statistical Properties of Orbital Wave Motions and their Application for the Measurement of Directional Wave Spectra
- ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES
- Energy loss and set-up due to breaking random waves
- Model‐data comparisons of moments of nonbreaking shoaling surface gravity waves
- Long waves on a beach
- Nonlinear effects on shoaling surface gravity waves
- Experimental investigation of wave propagation over a bar
- Field occurrences of induced multiple gravity waves
- Standing waves on beaches
- Observations and predictions of run‐up
- IRREGULAR WAVE SETUP AND RUN-UP ON BEACHES
- PERFORMANCE OF A SONAR ALTIMETER IN THE NEARSHORE
- Edge waves and surf beat
- Field observations of surf beat: 1. Progressive edge waves
- Spectral modeling of wave breaking: application to Boussinesq equations
- Shoaling and Decay of Two Wave Trains on Beach
- Transformation of wave height distribution
- Wave transformation and swash oscillation on gentle and steep slopes
- Transformation of a nonlinear wave train passing over a submerged shelf without breaking
Cited by
- The role of wave breaking on the development of wave spectra and bispectra in the surf zone
- Infragravity wave behaviour in a secondary tidal inlet, at the Slufter, the Netherlands
- Numerical Wave Simulations on Different Oceanic Scales
- The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Field Research Facility: More Than Two Decades of Coastal Research
- A Stochastic Model for Shoaling Waves.
- Data assimilation for prediction of shallow water flows with uncertain bathymetry
- The Effects of Surface Gravity Waves on Coastal Currents: Implementation, Phenomenological Explanation, and Realistic Simulation with ROMS
- Prediction and assimilation of surf-zone processes using a Bayesian network
- Wave dissipation by muddy seafloors
- Estimating wave energy dissipation in the surf zone using thermal infrared imagery
- Process-based cross-shore modelling of barred beaches
- Observations of wave energy fluxes and swash motions on a low‐sloping, dissipative beach
- Sediment Transport in the Swash-Zone of Natural Beaches
- Barotropic Tides on the North Carolina Shelf
- Directional spreading of waves in the nearshore
- NearCoM-TVD — A quasi-3D nearshore circulation and sediment transport model
- Implementation of the vortex force formalism in the coupled ocean-atmosphere-wave-sediment transport (COAWST) modeling system for inner shelf and surf zone applications
- Wave transformation on a microtidal barred beach (Sète, France)
- Effects of wave rollers and bottom stress on wave setup
- Observations of nonlinear runup patterns on plane and rhythmic beach morphology
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- Wave Height Distribution for Spilling Waves in and outside the Surf Zone