Model‐data comparisons of moments of nonbreaking shoaling surface gravity waves
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- Type
- article
- Published
- 1990-09-15
- Cited by
- 69
- References
- 35
- OpenAlex
- https://openalex.org/W1973839769
- Semantic Scholar
- https://api.semanticscholar.org/CorpusID:140650265
Keywords
Shoaling and schooling, Wave shoaling, Crest, Geology, Surface gravity
References
- Simple Models of Nearshore Sedimentation, Beach Profiles and Longshore Bars
- Wave Spectrum Changes on Sloped Beach
- ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES
- Long waves on a beach
- Nonlinear effects on shoaling surface gravity waves
- A note on the imaginary part of bispectra
- Observations of Nonlinear Effects in Directional Spectra of Shoaling Gravity Waves
- STEM WAVES ALONG BREAKWATER
- Relationships involving third moments and bispectra of a harmonic process
- Eulerian measurements of horizontal accelerations in shoaling gravity waves
- Skewness in the nearshore zone: A comparison of estimates from Marsh‐McBirney current meters and colocated pressure sensors
- Velocity moments in nearshore
- Nearshore bar formation by non-linear wave processes ― a comparison of model results and field data
- ON THE NUMERICAL MODELLING OF SHORT WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER
- Shoaling gravity waves: comparisons between field observations, linear theory, and a nonlinear model
- Continuous measurements of suspended sand concentration in a wave dominated nearshore environment
- Performance of a numerical short-wave model
- Statistics of bicoherence and biphase
- An energetics bedload model for a plane sloping beach: Local transport
- Nonlinear refraction-diffraction of surface waves in intermediate and shallow water
Cited by
- EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON THE BEHAVIOR OF BIVALVES BY OSCILLATORY FLOW
- A Stochastic Model for Shoaling Waves.
- Nonlinear, Dispersive Long Waves in Water of Variable Depth.
- EFFECTS OF MODE TRUNCATION AND DISSIPATION ON PREDICTIONS OF HIGHER ORDER STATISTICS
- Simulation of Water Waves by Boussinesq Models
- Higher-order spectral analysis of nonlinear ocean surface gravity waves
- Performance of a Boussinesq model for shoaling and breaking waves : a comparison with large scale laboratory data
- State of Nearshore Processes Research: II
- Modelling of nonlinear shoaling based on stochastic evolution equations
- A Numerical Implementation of a Nonlinear Mild Slope Model for Shoaling Directional Waves
- Observations of nonlinear interactions in directionally spread shoaling surface gravity waves
- Boussinesq modelling of wave-induced horizontal particle velocities
- Observations of Nonlinear Effects in Directional Spectra of Shoaling Gravity Waves
- Experimental study of wave–wave nonlinear interactions using the wavelet-based bicoherence
- Time-Dependent Numerical Code for Extended Boussinesq Equations
- Spectral evolution of shoaling and breaking waves on a barred beach
- Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves
- Naturally occurring scour pits in nearshore sands
- Bound waves and triad interactions in shallow water
- Modeling of nonlinear wave propagation over fringing reefs
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